‘La crise viticole’ overshadows all other topics in French reporting on the wine industry. Consumption is tumbling, costs are rising, catastrophic hikes in tariffs block exports and wineries of all sizes are going out of business. Economy of scale hardly seems to matter, but independent growers in unfashionable or overlooked appellations have their backs against the wall.  This study investigates the challenges they face and how the best and most imaginative businesses are managing to stay competitive and profitable.

Helen Savage has carried out a series of case studies in the areas of Bordeaux away from the spotlight of the classed growths and in neighbouring Bergerac and the Côtes de Duras. In particular, she looks in detail at the winning approach by Fanny Rey and her family at Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau at Saint Mariens in the appellation of Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Fanny, with her two brothers, Christian and Laurent were chosen by the 2025 Guide Hachette as Bordeaux winemakers of the Year, though Fanny readily admits this only gave their business a modest boost. We hope that Fanny may also able to join us in person.

Biographies

Fanny Rey

Fanny comes from a family of winemakers able to trace their roots on their estate back to 1763. As a youngster, wine was not her passion, but she chose to combine business studies in Bordeaux as well as singing lessons at the local conservatoire. Prodigiously talented, a glittering career on state was a real possibility, but stage fright meant that wine won. She is takes responsibility for the commercial side of the family business of the Domaine des Graves d’Ardonneau  with its 70 hectares of vines.

Helen Savage

Helen is a highly experienced wine educator and writer, a member both of CWW and  AWE. For many years based in the North East of England she moved permanently to South West France in 2023, from where she also  pursues her special interests in organic and biodynamic viticulture, Champagne and the wines of Alsace. She is amazed to discover that her little history of French wine written in 2011 (and even translated into French) is still available on Amazon and in other French outlets. It’s high time she wrote something else.

To join this Zoom seminar, please register now or at any time before 6pm GMT on April 28th.

The session, including Questions and Answers, will last for approximately one hour.

To register, follow the link below. Guests will be very welcome, but please let Andrea know their names.

Register here: https://us06web.zoom.us/meeting/register/4VxIJ73uRQKzjgRvM_OjNA

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining the webinar. We look forward to seeing you then.

If you can’t attend the live session, there will be a recording available to watch afterwards on the Circle’s YouTube channel (links to this and earlier sessions are in the members’ area of the website).

Helen Savage, CWW online events organiser