Robin Goldsmith explores the Grillo and Nero d’Avola wines of Sicily, beyond the famed volanic region of Etna, while visiting Sicilia En Primeur. A shorter version of this article was originally published by Académie du Vin and the full version is available on The Write Taste.
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, covering over 25,000km2. Most of the island is hilly or mountainous, with only 14.1% flat land. Mineral-rich soils and a Mediterranean climate of hot summers and mild, wet winters with large differences between day and night temperatures mean Sicily is blessed with excellent conditions for grape growing.
Wines from Etna, in the east, continue to gain increasing international recognition. The dominant grapes planted in these high-altitude, volcanic soils are Nerello Mascalese and Carricante. Yet the island offers so much more, as demonstrated perfectly at this year’s Sicilia En Primeur.
The 2024 vintage was characterised by a drop in yield, averaging 20%, impacted by drought, high temperatures, and an early harvest. The diverse nature of the island’s terroir means that the grape harvest is the longest of any Italian region, lasting 100 days from west to east. Starting in mid-July in western Sicily, around 15 days earlier than normal in 2024, it ended at the end of October on Mount Etna.
The quantity of grapes was 15% to 30% down in the west, but quality did not suffer with good ripeness levels attained. This comes after the difficult peronospora-hit 2023 vintage, a year marked by extreme heat and heavy rainfall that resulted in a significant drop in production across much of Italy.
Before the main Sicilia En Primeur tasting, various tours were organised. This year, my journey took in parts of the west and south of the island. Beginning in the north at Monreale near Palermo, and ending in the south in the province of Agrigento, there were plenty of wines and wine styles to compare. In particular, this was a great opportunity to discover more about Sicily’s most widely planted red and white grapes, Nero d’Avola and Grillo.
Nero d’Avola, known officially as Calabrese, produces a variety of styles, ranging from light, almost Pinot-like examples to lush, full-bodied, more tannic versions. If planted on sandier soils, floral and spicy notes develop, whereas clay soils can give more richness. The grape is particularly suited to areas of low rainfall, so expectations for the 2024 vintage have been high.
Created in 1873, Grillo is a crossing of Catarratto and Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria). Meaning ‘cricket’ in Italian, wines made from the grape can be light with citrus freshness, sapidity, floral and herbaceous notes or more textural and weighty. Between 2022 and 2024, total production of Grillo increased by nearly 22%, equating to just under 4.5 million bottles.
There are many expressions of Grillo and Nero d’Avola, encompassing dry and sweet still wines, plus sparkling wines and the iconic fortified delight, Marsala. Styles vary significantly between producers, with many using international grapes to add a different dimension and give wines more global appeal.
Mandrarossa and Feudo Montoni favour styles that express the vibrancy of their grapes without heavily concentrated fruit or overt oak flavours.
Mandrarossa Grillo 2024, from the south-west, is a light, refreshing, fruity Grillo with a touch of salinity. Their single-varietal Fiano, Grecanico and Vermentino expressions also emphasise fresh, bright and crisp styles. The winery’s Nero d’Avola 2024 is similarly light, clean and vinified in stainless steel. It’s a good example of an unoaked, fruity Nero d’Avola with a mineral edge, that could be lightly chilled before serving. Their multiple award-winning Cartagho Nero d’Avola 2021 is more intense and complex, but maintains a good balance between fresh acidity and soft tannins.
Organically farmed Feudo Montoni lies in central western Sicily on iron-rich soils. A minimal intervention approach results in wines that are distinctive, balanced and retain a light touch reflecting the natural character of the grapes.
Their Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia demonstrate this approach perfectly. For example, Grillo Timpa 2024 is refreshing and clean with floral and citrus notes, while older vintages add extra complexity, remaining bright, pure and refined. Nero d’Avolas are similarly impressive. Lagnusa 2023 is fresh, light and fruity with gentle herbs and spice. Riserva Vrucara 2021 and 2020 are more complex, made with the unusual technique of macerating 25% dried grape stems for around 60 days, prior to maturation, to “extract the warm tannins“. Although young with great potential to age, the mixed berry, herbs and gentle wood-derived notes never feel extreme. Nerello Mascalese and Perricone expressions are also fresh, characterful and precise.
Duca di Salaparuta, in south-central Sicily, is one of Sicily’s most renowned and oldest wine producers. Their style of Nero d’Avola is richer and fuller, particularly the iconic Duca Enrico, the first single varietal expression, created in 1984, which was instrumental in putting Sicilian red wine on the global map. The warm 2021 vintage resulted in a punchy 15% ABV, but smooth, elegant tannins and fresh acidity keep this in check. The nose shows notes of blood orange, bramble fruit, pomegranate and spice with an earthy hint. The palate is similar with hints of beetroot and sweet vanilla too on a long finish.
Triskelè Nero d’Avola 2021 undergoes an extra maceration on grape skins post-fermentation for one week. Malolactic conversion takes place in concrete tanks and the wine is aged in new or second-use oak barriques for around 12 months. It then spends a further 2-2½ years in bottle before release. The nose shows notes of sour cherry, strawberry, dried cranberry and spice, while on the palate, cherry, blackberry, spice and vanilla come to the fore. The 14.5% ABV adds to the fuller bodied and more concentrated mouthfeel.
Kàdos Grillo 2024, from their western Sicily estate, has a noticeable oak influence from partial lees-ageing in barriques. This gives the wine a fuller mouth feel, despite the modest alcohol level of 12.5% ABV. It’s floral and fruity with citrus, tropical and stone fruit notes on the nose, which continue on the palate with touches of grapefruit, peach, woody vanilla and peach kernel on the finish.
Fine dining and serious foodie places will probably veer towards richer, more concentrated styles, seeing them as showing good compatibility with their food. There is certainly a place for these expressions, but it would be a mistake to think of them as necessarily being of higher quality. Wineries like Feudo Montoni show that a lighter touch most definitely works and can result in wines of supreme excellence that pair beautifully with many cuisines.
Single varietal expressions allow the grapes to shine on their own and be distinctive. I found this to be particularly true for Grillo and Nero d’Avola. For me, Viognier, for example, tended to overpower the fresher and more delicate floral, herbal and mineral nature of Grillo, although Inzolia can add some extra character.
Blends of indigenous and international varieties do have commercial appeal. However, Sicilian grapes have so much personality and identity that they can stand up proudly on their own. Picking Nero d’Avola early, before a short maceration on the skins and no oak ageing, can result in deliciously light and refreshing wines that speak to the modern consumer with unmistakeable Italian style. Clearly relevant for more contemporary bars, they can also be perfect for fine dining settings.
As Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia, says: “Sicily has a thousand-year-old history that speaks of the future”. If the future of wine is to reach a new generation of customers, while retaining appeal for current vinophiles, then new, modern expressions of Sicilian grapes can be at the forefront of this endeavour.